I fell in love with Chemical Peels at the start of my aesthetic career by meeting women looking much younger than their chronological age! I would always ask them what their secret was, and 9 out of 10 would say “Chemical Peels every year”. This intrigued me, I had to learn more, and thus began my 14 year love affair with chemical peels.
A lot of us hear the words ‘chemical peels’ and quickly visualize horrific images of burn cases, think Samantha from the 90’s show Sex And The City. We instantly shut down the thought of ever getting one ourselves. We go on with our day not realizing that we just turned down one of the best things we can do for our skin health, texture, reflection, lines, scars, brown spots, acne and the list goes on. The truth is, chemical peels date all the way back to 4000 BC, when Cleopatra would take baths in sour milk which would produce Lactic acid. Over the centuries Chemical Peels have evolved and then gained popularity in the 90’s, but left an image we all have trouble getting past. Today, however, chemical peels vary drastically from no peeling (yes you can get a no peel-peel and great results) to shedding like a snake and everything in between. We have learned that more peeling and crazy scary downtime does not equal better results. In fact, you can do a series of less aggressive peels and get just as good of results or even better. The key is getting the right peel for your skin and lifestyle and doing proper aftercare.
There are three main types of chemical peels:
A Superficial Peel uses a mild acid or acids that penetrates the top layer of skin and treats mild discoloration, rough skin and breakouts and cleanses the pores. This is commonly referred to as the ‘lunchtime peel’, leaving little to no downtime. However, if using more than one acid, applying multiple layers, performing advanced exfoliation prior (like hydrafacial or microneedling), you may have some downtime of flaking to even sheets of skin. These peels are done in a series for optimal results.
A Medium Peel uses slightly stronger acids that penetrate the top and middle layers of the skin and can be used to treat issues like age spots, wrinkles, fine lines and freckles. These types of peels will create some form of downtime from flaking to sheets of skin coming off, also depending on the types of acid or acids being used, the number of layers applied, and if it was paired with an exfoliating treatment. A series of peels would likely be needed to address more serious concerns of deep wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
A Deep Peel penetrates deepest, and into the middle layer of the skin using a very strong acid. These are performed by physicians and may require some form of numbing beforehand with possible side effects requiring medical intervention. A deep peel will come with significant downtime and can leave you looking more like those 90’s images we remember all too well.
Fortunately, most chemical peels performed by an esthetician allow for personalization and customization. We can deliver the peel that fits your skin, your needs and concerns, all while keeping your skin safe from adverse reactions. Peels should not be looked at as a one size fits all and most definitely should not be so aggressive that clients leave with concerns from the peel.
What to expect before, during and after your chemical peel
Before
-Consult with your esthetician or doctor who is performing your peel about any medications you are currently taking and what skincare product you are using. They may suggest you stop certain skincare products like retinol/retinoids or recommend you use a specific product prior to your peel. In some cases, there are medications that you cannot be on in order to receive a chemical peel. This review of medical history step is so important. If you are prone to cold sores it may be advised to take a form of medication prior to prevent an outbreak.
-Avoid waxing or any aggressive treatments or exfoliating scrubs for up to a week prior.
-Stay out of the sun for 2 to 4 weeks prior including tanning bed. Yo.-u CANNOT receive a chemical peel if you have a sunburn or have been in the sun recently. The sun causes skin damage EVEN if you do not have a sunburn. This is why I strongly advise peels in fall and winter only.
During
This process changes from peel to peel. However here is an idea of what you might experience. All peels done by an esthetician do not require painkillers, but a deep peel may require a sedative or even anesthesia.
All peels start with cleansing the skin and protecting sensitive areas like the eyes and mouth.
Once the peel is applied you might experience a tingling to burning sensation. You will be given a hand held fan to help with this. Once the peel has sat on the skin for the appropriate amount of time which is usually around 10 mins, a neutralizing solution will be applied, if needed, but not all chemical peels need to be neutralized, some are self-neutralizing.
Then any after care products will be applied. The hot burning sensation can last after it is neutralized, but typically subsides quickly depending on the type of peel. If at a doctors office you may be given painkillers to help with the discomfort during the downtime. All peels performed by an esthetician do not need this step.
After
Follow the aftercare instructions to a tee! This is very important. The aftercare will vary depending on the peel, however, all chemical peels cause your skin to be more sensitive and prone to sun damage. STAY OUT OF THE SUN. I cannot stress this enough. GET OUT OF THE SUN and when you must be in the sun, WEAR SUNSCREEN and wearable protective clothing!
WHAT TO EXPECT DAY by DAY:
In general, most of the peels I perform have a downtime similar to this.
Day 1: Red to pink skin when you leave the office, slightly tender feeling like a light sunburn.
Day 2: Skin looks shiny and tight.
Day 3: Skin feels much tighter and light peeling around the mouth begins.
Day 4: full face peeling
Day 5: full face peeling
Day 6: no more face peeling except around the hairline
Day 7: no more peeling and can start back on all regular products.
This is an average timeline, NOT a timeline for EVERYONE, but it gives a general idea of what to expect.
BENEFITS OF CHEMICAL PEELS:
-removes dead skin cells
-reduces fine lines
-reduces sun damage
-helps with acne scars
-helps with age spots, freckles, hyperpigmentation and melasma.
-promotes cell turnover which is a must for slowing down the aging process
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW AND TIPS:
-ALWAYS go to a licensed professional that is thoroughly trained on the product.
-Follow the after care to a tee! And the pre care, yes there are things you cannot do for up to a week prior, like using a retinol. Every peel will vary on their pre and post care so you will need to speak with your esthetician.
--The best time to get peels is in the winter, even if you are really good about staying out of the sun in the summer. It's still hot outside and any type of heat, even internal, can create possible side effects like hyperpigmentation.
–It’s best to do a series of 3 or more depending on your needs and the type of peels you are doing.
–You can peel your whole body! Well most of it. I am all about extending the peels to the neck, décolletage and I love a good hand peel. Most recently I am into peeling my arms as well. I have done many chemical peels to backs and it is super beneficial for back acne/scars.
I hope this takes away the fear that can come with chemical peels. Yes, you will experience some downtime but gone are the days of scary overly aggressive peels, at least at my office. Start working annual peels into your skin care and I promise you won’t regret it.
Happy Peeling
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